My garage had 12 four foot fluorescent shop lights from the 1990s when I moved in. Half flickered, two needed new ballasts, and the cold months made them slow to warm up. I finally replaced everything with LEDs last year and tracked the difference. Here is what I learned.
The short version: LEDs win in every category except up front cost, and that gap has shrunk to almost nothing.
Quick comparison
| Type | Lifespan | Warm Up | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hyperikon 4 ft LED Shop Light | 50,000 hr | Instant | Garage and basement |
| Barrina T5 Linkable LED | 25,000 hr | Instant | Workbench and closets |
| Sunco LED Tube T8 Retrofit | 50,000 hr | Instant | Existing T8 fixtures |
| Philips T8 Fluorescent | 30,000 hr | 30 sec | Replacement for old fixtures |
| GE T12 Fluorescent | 20,000 hr | 60 sec | Legacy fixture compatibility |
Hyperikon 4-Foot LED Shop Light
I replaced four of my garage fluorescents with these Hyperikon hanging shop lights. Each draws 42 watts and puts out about 4400 lumens, matching the brightness of a 64 watt fluorescent fixture. They have a pull chain switch and link together with cords if you want one switch to control multiple. Color temperature is 5000K, which feels like clean daylight. After 14 months of daily use, zero failures.
Barrina T5 Linkable LED
For under cabinet and workbench lighting, the Barrina T5 strips are unbeatable. Slim profile, 20 watts each, 2200 lumens, and they daisy chain up to 8 in a row. I installed six along my garage workbench and the shadow free light is great for fine work. The aluminum body runs cool to the touch and the click connectors are tool free. The only downside is fixed color temperature per model, pick warm or cool when you buy.
Sunco LED T8 Retrofit Tubes
If you have working T8 fluorescent fixtures and just want to swap the tubes, Sunco’s ballast bypass LEDs are the cheapest path. I converted four shop fixtures using these tubes after rewiring the sockets to skip the ballast. Each tube draws 18 watts replacing a 32 watt fluorescent. Light output is even and there is no buzz. Pay attention, single ended and dual ended models wire differently.
Philips T8 Fluorescent Tubes
If you really cannot move off fluorescent, Philips T8 tubes are the best of the type. 32 watts, 2950 lumens, around 30,000 hour rated life. Color rendering is decent for fluorescent at CRI 78. I keep a four pack on the shelf for the one fixture in my basement that I have not converted yet. Honestly, the gap to LED is wide enough now that I would not buy fluorescent for any new install.
GE T12 Fluorescent Tubes
T12 is the older, thicker fluorescent tube standard. If your fixture is from the 1980s or earlier, you probably have T12. GE still makes them but they are being phased out by efficiency regulations. Replace these tubes only as a stopgap, then plan to swap the fixture for LED. The ballast in old T12 fixtures is often the actual failure point.
How to choose
If you are building or replacing from scratch, buy LED shop lights like the Hyperikon and skip fluorescent entirely. If your fluorescent fixtures still work, T8 LED retrofit tubes are the cheapest upgrade. Only buy new fluorescent tubes as a short term fix. The cost difference between LED and fluorescent has narrowed to under 10 dollars per fixture in most cases, while LED uses 40 percent less power and lasts twice as long.
Frequently asked questions
Can I put an LED tube in a fluorescent fixture?+
Sometimes. Direct fit LED tubes work in T8 fixtures if you bypass the ballast or buy ballast compatible tubes. Read the label carefully.
Are LEDs worth replacing working fluorescent bulbs?+
Yes if your electric is over 12 cents per kWh and the lights run more than 4 hours a day. Payback is usually under 18 months.