The mascara aisle has 40 tubes that all look similar. Black ink, plastic wand, claims like “volume”, “length”, “curl”, “lift”, “drama”, “definition.” Underneath the marketing words, mascaras fall into four functional categories: volumising, lengthening, curling, and tubing. A fifth axis (waterproof vs regular) cuts across all four. This guide explains what each formula and brush combination actually does, who it suits, and how to layer two formulas when one is not enough.
What a volumising mascara does
A volumising mascara thickens each lash by depositing more product per stroke. The formula is usually a thick, waxy paste with high pigment density and dense fibres. The brush is typically:
- A fat hourglass or barrel shape
- Dense bristles, often plastic or a mix of plastic and natural
- Wide enough to catch the full lash line in one stroke
What it does:
- Coats each lash thickly
- Makes the lash line look denser
- Creates a darker, more dramatic eye in photographs
- Suits sparse lashes, mature lashes, or anyone wanting evening drama
What it does not do well:
- Lengthen short lashes much (the formula is too thick to extend the tip)
- Stay light and natural for daytime
- Avoid clumping on its own
Examples: Maybelline Lash Sensational Sky High, Too Faced Better Than Sex, Benefit They’re Real, Lancôme Hypnose, L’Oreal Voluminous.
What a lengthening mascara does
A lengthening mascara extends each lash by depositing fibres or thin layers along the existing lash. The formula is usually a thinner liquid with smaller fibres, sometimes nylon. The brush is typically:
- A long thin comb shape, often plastic
- Short, fine bristles spaced evenly
- Narrow enough to reach individual lashes
What it does:
- Stretches the visible length of each lash
- Creates a defined, separated lash look
- Suits long thin lashes that need definition rather than thickness
- Photographs cleanly without clumping
What it does not do well:
- Add visible thickness to sparse lashes
- Create dramatic evening looks (too refined)
- Hold the lashes in a strong curl on its own
Examples: L’Oreal Telescopic, Maybelline Define-A-Lash, Clinique High Impact, MAC Stack.
What a curling mascara does
A curling mascara holds a curl in place after the lash curler. The formula is usually a fast-drying, slightly stiffer paste with polymers that set within seconds. The brush is typically:
- A curved or banana shape that follows the lash arc
- Medium bristle density
- Shorter than a length brush
What it does:
- Locks lashes in the upward curl set by an eyelash curler
- Opens up the eye visually
- Prevents the lash from drooping during the day
- Suits straight or down-pointing lashes
What it does not do well:
- Replace a separate eyelash curler step (works best as the second step after curling)
- Give significant length or volume on its own
Examples: Maybelline Lash Sensational, Anastasia Beverly Hills Lash Brag, Benefit Roller Lash.
What a tubing mascara does
A tubing mascara forms small polymer tubes around each lash. The tubes are flexible, water-resistant, and remove cleanly with warm water and gentle pressure.
What it does:
- Stays in place for 10 to 14 hours without smudging or flaking
- Removes with warm water alone
- Suits sensitive eyes, contact lens wearers, and humid weather
- Lengthens reliably (the tube formula naturally extends the lash tip)
What it does not do well:
- Add big volume (the tube formula is lighter than waxy mascara)
- Build with multiple coats (tubes do not stack much)
Examples: L’Oreal Telescopic Lift, Blinc Mascara, Trish McEvoy Lash Curling, Thrive Causemetics Liquid Lash Extensions.
A direct comparison
| Property | Volume | Length | Curl | Tubing |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main effect | Thick lash | Long lash | Lifted lash | Long, no smudge |
| Formula | Thick waxy | Thinner liquid | Fast-drying polymer | Polymer tube |
| Brush | Fat hourglass | Thin comb | Curved | Varies |
| Drama level | High | Low to medium | Medium | Low to medium |
| Smudge resistance | Medium | Low to medium | Medium | High |
| Removal | Cleanser or oil remover | Cleanser | Cleanser | Warm water |
| Best for | Sparse lashes, evening | Short lashes wanting definition | Straight lashes | Sensitive eyes, daily wear |
| Average price | $10 to $30 | $10 to $30 | $10 to $30 | $12 to $30 |
Waterproof vs regular
Waterproof and tubing are not the same thing.
- Waterproof mascara uses heavier waxes and silicones that resist water but require an oil-based remover and rubbing to take off. Removes only with effort.
- Tubing mascara uses water-soluble polymers that flake off as tubes with warm water and gentle pressure. Removes cleanly without rubbing.
- Regular mascara removes with regular cleanser.
Waterproof is heavier on the lash and harder to remove. Daily use of waterproof mascara is one of the most common causes of lash thinning, because the removal step pulls lashes out over time. Reserve waterproof for swimming, weddings, very humid weather, or for those who cry easily.
Layering for combined effects
Editorial makeup artists rarely use one mascara alone. Common combinations:
Length plus volume
Apply a lengthening mascara first, working through every lash with a comb-style brush. Wait 30 seconds. Apply a volumising mascara on top, focused on the base of the lashes. This combination gives lashes that are both long and thick.
Curl plus volume
Use an eyelash curler at the base. Apply a curling mascara to set the curl. Wait 30 seconds. Apply a volumising mascara on top. This combination gives lifted, dramatic lashes.
Length plus tubing
Apply a lengthening mascara first. Apply a tubing mascara on top. This combination gives long, smudge-proof lashes that remove with water.
A maximum of two mascaras per look. More than two starts to clump.
Application tips that change the result
- Wipe the wand on the tube edge before applying. Removes excess product that causes clumping.
- Wiggle at the base of the lash for 2 seconds before pulling up. Deposits more product at the root, where lashes look densest.
- Apply to the upper lashes first, then the lower. By the time you reach the lower lashes, the wand has less product, which is what you want.
- Comb out any clumps immediately with a clean spoolie. Dried clumps are harder to fix.
- Replace mascara every 3 to 4 months. Old mascara causes more smudging, irritation and bacterial infections than any application mistake.
Common mascara mistakes
Pumping the wand
Pumping the wand in and out of the tube pushes air in and dries out the formula faster. Twist the wand instead.
Applying mascara before eye makeup
Mascara done first leaves marks on the lid during shadow application. Eye makeup first, mascara last.
Skipping the lower lashes entirely
Lower lashes balance the eye. A small amount of mascara on the lower lashes (especially the outer half) makes the eye look more open. Skip if lashes are very short or very dark already.
Using last year’s tube
A tube that has been open for 6 months or longer is dried out and bacteria-prone. The most common cause of mascara smudging in mid-afternoon is an old tube.
For the curling step before mascara, see our eyelash curler use guide. For the matching primer that helps shadow stay put alongside mascara, see our eyeshadow primer uses guide.
Frequently asked questions
Can one mascara do both volume and length?+
Some hybrid formulas attempt both, marketed as 'volume and length' or 'full effect.' In practice they usually do one job well and the other moderately. Truly equal results in both usually need two tubes layered: a lengthening mascara first to extend the lash, then a volumising mascara on top for thickness. This is the technique used in editorial photography. Most everyday users pick the formula that matches their bigger concern.
Why does my mascara smudge by mid-afternoon?+
Three common causes. First, oily lids transfer oil onto the upper lashes, breaking down regular mascara. Use a waterproof or tubing formula. Second, the lower lashes touch the under-eye area, picking up moisturiser or concealer. Set the under-eye area with a small amount of translucent powder before mascara. Third, the mascara is past its prime. Mascara should be replaced every 3 to 4 months because the wand introduces bacteria and the formula dries out.
What is tubing mascara and how is it different?+
Tubing mascara forms small polymer tubes around each lash rather than coating them with pigmented wax. The tubes slide off with warm water and gentle pressure, no makeup remover needed. Tubing mascara does not smudge, does not flake, and is ideal for sensitive eyes and contact lens wearers. The trade-off: tubing formulas often give less dramatic volume than traditional waxy mascaras. Examples include L'Oreal Telescopic Lift, Blinc Mascara, Trish McEvoy Lash Curling.
Should I use waterproof every day?+
Not recommended. Waterproof formulas require oil-based removers and aggressive rubbing to remove, which over time can break and weaken lashes. Reserve waterproof for swimming days, weddings, very humid weather, or for those with watery eyes. For everyday wear, a tubing mascara gives waterproof-level hold with water-only removal.
Does the brush shape matter more than the formula?+
Both matter, but the brush often has a bigger visible effect than the formula. A fat hourglass brush gives volume regardless of formula. A thin comb brush gives length and separation regardless of formula. A curved brush gives lift. Two tubes with the same liquid in different brushes can produce different lash results. Beginners often find more value in trying a different brush shape than a different brand.
Alex Patel
Alex Patel writes for The Tested Hub.