An RV in long-term storage faces specific problems that do not occur during regular use. Tires sit on one spot and develop flat spots. Batteries discharge slowly and sulfate. Rodents find their way in and shred wiring. UV light degrades roof seals. Mold grows in stagnant interiors. A short preparation routine before storage and a few mid-storage checks prevent almost all of these problems. This guide walks through the full process.
Pick the storage location
Indoor climate-controlled storage is the gold standard but costs $200 to $500 per month. The rig stays out of UV, weather, and freeze cycles. Insurance discounts often apply.
Indoor covered storage (a metal roof over an open-sided structure) costs $100 to $250 per month and protects against rain, snow, and sun but not temperature extremes.
Outdoor lots cost $30 to $150 per month and protect against nothing beyond what the rig’s own materials provide. A quality RV cover becomes essential here.
Home storage on the owner’s property is free but check HOA rules and local ordinances; many neighborhoods prohibit visible RV storage.
Pre-storage cleaning
A clean rig stores better. Wash the exterior to remove road salt (highly corrosive over months), bug remains, and tree sap that hardens over time. A quality wax or sealant adds a UV-protection layer to paint.
Inside, vacuum every floor surface, wipe down counters and seats, and clean the fridge and freezer thoroughly. Any food residue attracts pests. Pull out and clean any dish drying racks, soap dishes, or other moisture-trapping items.
Empty the pantry completely. Canned goods can freeze and burst in unheated storage. Crackers, cereal, pasta, and similar items attract rodents.
Empty the holding tanks (fresh, grey, and black) and follow the standard tank flush routine.
Winterize the water system
In any climate that drops below freezing, the water system must be winterized before storage. This is a separate detailed process covered in our RV winterization checklist. The short version: drain the fresh tank, drain the water heater, set the water heater bypass, drain the low-point drains, and pump non-toxic RV antifreeze through every plumbing line until pink appears at every faucet and the toilet.
Battery management
Disconnect the battery negative terminals or use the master battery disconnect switch to remove all parasitic loads. The propane detector, the LP gas detector, and the radio memory can drain a battery from full to dead in 4 to 8 weeks.
For storage over 4 weeks, either remove the batteries to a temperature-controlled space and put them on a battery maintainer (NOCO Genius, Battery Tender Plus, Schumacher SC1280), or connect a maintainer to the batteries in the rig if shore power is available.
Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries store best at 40 to 60 percent state of charge, disconnected from any load. Do not store lithium batteries fully charged for long periods; capacity degrades faster.
Lead-acid batteries store best at full charge. A discharged lead-acid battery sulfates over weeks and loses capacity permanently.
Tires
Tire age matters more than tread depth on RVs because the tires often outlast the tread by years of slow degradation. Most RV tire manufacturers recommend replacement at 5 to 7 years regardless of tread, because UV and chemical aging weaken the structure.
For storage, inflate to 5 psi above normal running pressure (compensates for cold-weather pressure loss). Park on wood planks or rubber pads rather than directly on concrete or dirt; concrete leaches chemicals into rubber over years, and dirt holds moisture against the tire.
Cover the tires with UV-blocking covers to prevent sun degradation. White or silver covers reflect heat best.
For storage over 6 months, roll the rig forward or back a few feet every 2 to 3 months to rotate the tire contact patch. This prevents flat-spotting where the tire sits.
Rodent prevention
Rodent damage is among the most common storage-related repairs and one of the most expensive. A mouse can chew through wiring insulation, build nests in air ducts, and contaminate upholstery in a single winter.
Three layers of prevention work together.
Block entry points. Check every plumbing penetration in the floor, the generator compartment, the propane locker access, the area under entry steps, and around the wheel wells. Steel wool packed into any gap larger than a pencil eraser blocks mice (rats need larger gaps; same approach). Spray foam over the steel wool secures it.
Remove food sources. Empty all pantry items. Vacuum every crumb. Remove paper towels and tissues which mice shred for nests.
Deploy deterrents. Peppermint oil on cotton balls placed in cabinets, drawers, and under the bed; refresh every 4 to 6 weeks. Mothballs in outside storage compartments (not inside the cabin because the odor permeates fabric). Commercial repellents like Fresh Cab pouches contain herbal mixes that rodents dislike. Snap traps or electronic traps near likely entry points catch any that breach the perimeter.
Check on the rig every 4 to 6 weeks during storage to confirm no rodent activity has started.
Seals and slides
Roof seals fail from UV exposure. Inspect every roof penetration (vents, antennas, AC units, refrigerator vent) and apply self-leveling lap sealant (Dicor 501LSW) to any visible cracks before storage. A $30 tube of sealant prevents thousands in water damage.
Retract all slide-outs for storage. An extended slide accumulates more debris in its tracks, exposes more seal surface to UV, and creates roof load if snow falls.
Treat slide and door seals with a UV protectant like 303 Aerospace Protectant or Protect-All. Soft, flexible rubber seals last 10 to 15 years with treatment; untreated seals crack in 5 to 7 years.
Awnings should be fully retracted and clean. A rolled-up awning with leaves or debris inside accumulates moisture and can develop mildew.
Cover the rig
A quality RV cover protects against UV, water, and debris. ADCO, Classic Accessories, and Camco make breathable covers in size ranges for every RV class. Cost runs $300 to $800 depending on length.
A breathable cover is essential. Tarps trap moisture against the rig surface and cause mildew and paint damage. Look for covers with ventilation panels and zippered access doors.
The cover should fit snugly. A loose cover flaps in wind and abrades the rig surface over months.
Mid-storage checks
Every 4 to 6 weeks, do a 15-minute storage check.
For motorhomes: start the engine and run for 15 to 30 minutes or take a short drive. This circulates oil, keeps fuel from gelling in diesel rigs, and maintains seal flexibility. Check chassis battery voltage.
For all rigs: verify the cover is still secure, check for rodent activity, confirm the battery maintainer is still connected and the indicator light shows healthy charge state, look for any new tree sap or bird damage on the cover, and confirm the slide-outs and doors are still sealed.
For broader RV maintenance guidance, see our /methodology page and related winterization and water system guides.
The honest framing: storage damage is preventable damage. A single 90-minute prep session in the fall and a 15-minute check every 4 to 6 weeks prevent almost all the common storage problems. The owners who skip prep and emerge in spring with a rodent-chewed wiring harness, a dead battery bank, and cracked roof seals pay for that shortcut many times over.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to start the RV engine during storage?+
For Class A and Class C motorhomes, yes, every 4 to 6 weeks. Start the engine and run it for 15 to 30 minutes, ideally driving the rig a short distance. This circulates oil, keeps seals lubricated, recharges the chassis battery, and prevents fuel system issues. For trailers (no engine), this does not apply. If a Class A coach cannot be driven during storage, a battery tender on the chassis battery prevents the most common starting problems.
Should I cover my RV during storage?+
A proper RV cover (ADCO, Classic Accessories, Camco brands) protects against UV degradation of paint and seals, water intrusion at known weak points, and bird and tree debris. A cover specifically rated for RVs has straps that secure tightly without flapping, vents that prevent moisture buildup underneath, and reinforced corners. A tarp is worse than no cover because it traps moisture and flaps in wind, which abrades the rig surface. Cost for a quality cover runs $300 to $800 depending on length.
How do I prevent rodents in stored RVs?+
Three layers work together. First, seal entry points: check around plumbing penetrations, the generator compartment, the propane locker, and the area under the entry steps. Steel wool packed into gaps blocks mice. Second, remove food sources: empty all pantry items, vacuum crumbs, and store nothing edible in the rig. Third, deterrents: peppermint oil cotton balls placed in cabinets and under the bed, mothballs in outside storage compartments (not inside the rig because of odor), or commercial rodent repellents like Fresh Cab pouches. Bait traps near likely entry points catch any that get in.
What is the best way to store RV tires?+
Three things matter. Keep tires off direct ground contact if possible, ideally on wood planks or rubber pads that prevent moisture wicking and concrete chemical exposure. Inflate to 5 psi above normal running pressure to compensate for cold-weather pressure loss. Cover the tires with UV-blocking covers to prevent sun degradation. For storage over 6 months, move the rig every 2 to 3 months a quarter turn or roll it a few feet to prevent flat-spotting where the tire sits on the ground.
Should I disconnect the batteries for storage?+
For storage over 4 weeks, yes. Either remove the batteries to a temperature-controlled space and put them on a maintainer, or leave them in the rig and connect a smart battery tender (NOCO Genius, Battery Tender Plus) to keep them topped up. A battery left sitting at partial charge for several months will sulfate and lose capacity permanently. Lithium batteries should be stored at 40 to 60 percent charge for best long-term health and disconnected from any parasitic load.
Riley Cooper
Riley Cooper writes for The Tested Hub.